Rewind and Play

 

This country has “niceties” that I wouldn’t find anywhere else in the world. For instance, it’s curious the way superstition matters are seriously taken after so many years of materialistic socialism. Newspapers are full of stories corroborating the return to old traditions and witchcraft, some of them happening on our doorsteps.

 

An unfortunate whale picked the sands of Inhaca Island to end its days. When the word spread, the hungry population feasted on the huge mammal meat, forgetting Grandpa Nhaca, the traditional chief or king of the island. Old Nhaca didn’t enjoy being marginalized and cursed the abusive people who forgot that royalty has a stomach too. Since then, the islanders have been living in fear for their future. Any accident or misfortune is going to be explained by Nhaca’s unquestionable powers.

 

If that feels strange to you, wrap up another one. Recently, the national airfreight company brought a new Embrair 190. As soon as the plane arrived from Brazil, a goat was sacrificed to bring luck. Hearing that, I corrected: “Do you mean they killed and ate a goat to celebrate…” No way. I was wrong. The goat was slaughtered just to spill blood and please ancestors and traditional divinities. Isn’t this an amazing combination of tech and eek?

I Wasn’t That Optimistic…

 

What was I doing when most Mozambicans were celebrating the brand new bridge over the mighty Zambeze, whose running waters separate this country in half? In fact, I was visiting a factory and, because of that, I couldn’t share the general optimism.

 

The factory is a wreck. A ghost of industrialization. A collection of dilapidated buildings looming out of nowhere. No word could paint the reality of the private sector better than the images still haunting my mind: unlimited sky, useless structures, living shadows, humble presences, another time, no break for poverty and no more doors to open.

 

From that day and that place I still gather the impression of how nice and deserving of a better life those factory workers are. Owners live in despair. Workers live in extreme poverty. Owners have no clue of what to do next. Workers are sadly marginalized from most of the things making life worth living. Inexplicably, they both seem united inside the same capsule of oblivion and hopelessness. The only reason they might have to celebrate about their lives is the air they breathe. (It is becoming clearer and clearer that Maputo is a very polluted city these days.)

 

Because of all that, I wasn’t that optimistic about the bridge. It has been presented as a key factor for development, especially of the Northern region. As far as I know, no mighty river separates that factory from the rest of the country. Still, it’s a ruin.

 

Maybe I’ve been very pessimistic lately. I cannot shake from my head the empty, dilapidated factories across this land. The jobless crowds. The tasteless shops that keep doors open in expensive commercial areas, though we cannot see a single client inside for months or even years…

 

Anyway, I don’t intend to analyze. I don’t pretend to criticize either. I rather say that I don’t get how the economy of this country works. It just puzzles me.

1, 2, 3… Testing

 

After less than a month of something passing for winter, we are welcoming spring the best possible way: testing our 6m semi-rigid Navegador. Navegador is a very reliable and playful boat. Thanks to design, lightness and motor performance, it can cross this bay with three times less fuel than any other boat. Most of them dock during long periods, while Navegador only docks because of weather or laziness conditions.

 

There’s a lesson we have to learn from all this long period without boat. Three years ago, when Navegador had an accident, we assumed the motor was completely doomed. So, we sat and waited for an opportunity to buy a new one. JP even offered parts of it to a friend. Assuming is a terrible thing…

 

Due to some pressure from the club, we sent the boat to a repair dock in Durban and after a couple of days we were informed that the motor was in perfect health. As a conclusion, we have just paid for service and the parts JP had alienated. The total repair cost represents 7 or 8 times less than our estimative. I couldn’t ask for a better way to start our 2009 beach season.

 

We have three tests planned: one short distance (Catembe), one middle distance (around the bay) and one “long” distance (Inhaca Island). The short distance test was absolutely successful. The motor roared softly, yet powerfully, as it should have.

 

Leaving behind the city humming and a white foamy path across the blue bay, to Catembe we sped. We were lucky to have picked the most perfect day, almost “mar espelho”. We had champagne on the beach and prawns at the nearby quiet, friendly restaurant. It was a bit stormy during the trip back to the club, but Navegador behaved till the end.

 

The only problems noticed were: 1) We have to improve the anchor system. 2) We have to get a light cover to protect the navigation instruments, since the original cover is too heavy and only useful for travelling proposes. 3) We have to repair the working trailer in order to ease the docking procedures. The travelling trailer is new, but the one where the boat sleeps is rusty and difficult to manage. 4) When hydraulically upped, the motor touches a seat bar. It could have badly crushed my hand, but, as most of the time I protect hands and feet on beaches and at sea, the thickness of a glove saved me for the worst. We have to do something about this.

 

Other than the boat, here are some exciting news from this corner of the universe:

 

- World Cup 2010 construction frenzy seems to have reached Maputo.

 

- Guard Albert is now a father of a healthy baby girl. That same day (August 4), one boy and 15 other girls were born at the same hospital, confirming Andy’s theory that men are on the verge of extinction or Chanda’s theory that people are eating the wrong food.

 

- Speaking of food, our house has been functioning as B&B for two crocodiles. Again. One of them, full of vim, jumped from the travelling container and, if it weren’t for my checking on them from time to time, he would be lost or smashed by a car. I caught the guy two steps away from our front gate. We are feeding them with liver and I have to say that these two guests are not very sociable. Soon they will join two other male crocs living up North. Andy swears this time he is sending a female too. The lucky girl will not know what competition is in the near future…

 

- Keket celebrated six months in good spirit. She is growing pretty fast and learning basic lessons during our daily walks: no, come, stop, sit… With the right incentive (read biltong), I believe that I can teach my dogs to sing “This Paws Are Made for Walking”.

Dogs and Teeth

 

During one of my last Miradouro walks, right before I committed myself to my dogs’ health and entertainment, I overheard a conversation between two little girls:

 

“Do you love dogs?” one of them asked.

 

“I love dogs very much,” the other answered in a serious, thoughtful manner, “but I don’t love their teeth.”

 

At the time those words made me smile and I knew I would write something about them. This week my Staffie Keket celebrated six months, five of them spent with us. I remembered that conversation and found it a good subject for my weekly post.

 

In reality, I was left wondering if it’s possible to love something or someone if we have doubts. I repeatedly asked myself that same question and always got the same answer.

 

I admit that, for some, love can exist and subsist despite buts. Fortunately or unfortunately, we don’t all accept them. I am sure the love that girl could ever experience for dogs is undermined by fear. That love doesn’t have a practical existence, because teeth overshadow any possible action or feeling towards the loved one.

 

I think the same happens to me and to many others. Suppose you have to sit and study this possibility: “Sometimes I have teeth and sometimes I don’t”. And suppose words hurt a lot more than teeth. Do you accept the fact and peacefully live with it? My answer is no and nothing is going to change it. Wanted or not, love has commercial nuances. You have this to offer. Do I accept it? I don’t. Life goes on.

 

And maybe when we don’t accept teeth we start to unveil so many other unwanted aspects about dogs. Ambiguity, for instance. Crafted messages that fit more than one context and keep us unaware of teeth. Pleasing Greeks and Trojans never worked. At some point, one or both walk away. Because some day we are going to stop saying that we love dogs except for their teeth and conclude that our love is no love after all. Admiration dies. Feelings crumble. Love vanishes.

 

(I have to say that I personally love dogs, teeth included.)