If you intend to travel by car to Durban, you have two options in what concerns Mozambican borders: Namaacha or Goba. Because we know well Namaacha and mukerismo, the same phenomenon possible to find at Ressano Garcia border, we picked the second option. We have crossed at Goba before and it is always a pleasant surprise to find a clean, modern place, with friendly, efficient people. Why doesn’t Goba spirit spread to other places and services of this country?
After Goba we have to face African reality again when entering and exiting Swaziland, before we finally encounter South African efficiency. The only thing bad in this journey is crossing Swaziland because the road is flat (in both senses), besides it’s now in awful conditions.
As soon as we enter in Swazi, and to be true with his ideals, Paul stops to buy charcoal cooked maize. “Irresistible!” he proclaims. I really don’t feel like eating but having time hanging on my hands I start to pick corn by corn and in the end it was elucidative. Do you know what I found? Crossing Swaziland takes the same time than eating all those corns without particular enthusiasm.
It was almost 9am when we left home. Two or three turns after, I heard this comment: “Look, a German motorbike! Must be a German guy traveling all over Africa!” A couple of hours later, at the Swazi-South Africa border, we encountered a bus with German tourists seduced by the region known to be the best place in the world for rhinoceros.
Once inside South Africa, we stopped for a drink in a place full of German speaking clientele. “They are from Namibia,” explains Paul. While I was on the phone, he could follow bits of the conversations taking place.
I tell you that it is quite funny to be in a country where we expect to hear English and find so many people speaking German. I was precisely thinking this when a little Pug showed up.
I am always amazed with dog’s intuition. Take for instance the little Pug in Bayala road oasis. He entered the restaurant balcony and came straight to me, waited a little, gave a walk around and came back decided that the safest place to sleep was at my feet. So sure he was that I could go for the camera in the car and arrive on time to take a picture of the little lazy thing still sleeping under the protection of my lilac wrap skirt. Having seen this dog only twice before, how could he recognize me?
It’s not the first time dogs surprise me. Six years ago I received a great lesson from a dog with the name and the attitude of a God. Unfortunately, he also had weak kidneys. He knew that he was about to die but we didn’t. Moments before he came to me and put his heavy head on my lap making an unusual pressure. Because I found it strange, I followed him and saw him go straight to Buba (the female) and check if she was in season. Showing a sign of tired relief, he went to a corner as if drunk. Life and death flashed in his eyes during the last walk of his life.
What have I learned from the last seconds of a dog’s life? That even a dying dog knows that in the last instants what counts in this world is the love that we feel. When his death was confirmed, I went to bed and cried for 24 hours. Since then I had to learn how to deal with this kind of situations, but it’s never easy!
If you wonder where I have been, I can tell you I spent a couple of days on a South African beach. It is a place far from the usual summer crowds, situated almost 100km far from Durban. If you ask me what was I doing in such a place, I can tell you I was celebrating life.
Right now I don’t feel like writing about those days. Soon I am going to Bilene. Plans are under way for this weekend or the next.